WAATU

WAATU is the restaurant at The Ungasan Clifftop Resort, and its kitchen runs without gas or electric burners: everything is cooked over coals and timber. The menu, created with Australian chef James Viles, centres on yakitori skewers such as chicken, prawn, scallop and wagyu, plus flatbreads, wood-fired shokupan, grilled steak and seasonal Indonesian produce. There is a fire-led vegan set, natural wines and a cocktail list.

The dining room is dark timber and rattan with an open bar, and outside there are tables beside the infinity pool with the ocean far below. It opens from 07:30 for breakfast and runs until late, but dinner is the main event, when the sound of the sea and the smell of smoke fill the terrace. Expect splurge prices; set menus are offered for special dates such as New Year's Eve.

Book ahead on the website, particularly for sunset. The Ungasan is on Jl. Pantai Selatan Gau, south of the main Uluwatu road; Sundays Beach Club is reached through the same resort if you want to spend the day on the beach first.